O Camiño dos Faros in Costa da Morte (Galicia, Spain)
If you like long, exciting routes that offer landscapes, culture, and the occasional moments of suffering, don't think twice and set off for Galicia (Spain) to discover the 200 km of the Costa da Morte on foot. You'll see incredible scenery and eat like a king as you cruise along the rugged coastline in the province of A Coruña.
O Camiño dos Faros (The Lighthouse Way) has 8 stages of variable length and difficulty, starting in Malpica and finishing at Cape Finisterre. It runs through forests, over dizzying cliffs, through shrubland and along white sandy beaches that are well worth a rest stop. But hikers beware, this route is no stroll in the park and it does have its difficulty, which lies, above all, in the length of the stages, the ruggedness of the surroundings, the poor maintenance of certain parts of the path and the numerous slopes that have to be negotiated. However, don't think twice, because it's well worth embarking on this adventure.
In order to complete the entire route, you need to be in good physical shape and have the right equipment. Although this is simply a hiking route, the long distances, steep slopes and the weight of the rucksack can take their toll on your legs day after day. Of course, there are other ways to do the Camiño dos Faros, but let's face it, if your backpack is carried from stage to stage and all your meals are prepared for you, isn't it all a little less authentic?
Due to the long distances of the different stages, it is essential to be well organised and to set out early, planning ahead whether you will be able to eat in a restaurant or bar along the way or whether you need to take some food with you for the day. There is plenty of accommodation at the start or end of the stages, and in the surrounding areas, and the taxi service also works well, although we strongly recommend booking in advance at certain times of the year.
The hardest stages, in our opinion, were number 6, from Camariñas to Muxía, due to the long distance to cover (32.6 km), long paved areas, and the accumulated tiredness of the previous days, but also number 7, from Muxía to Nemiña, as a result of the steep slopes to be negotiated and the impassability of the route on certain stretches, which will destroy your legs if you're not wearing trousers. However, passing by the Tourinán lighthouse and knowing that you're at the most westerly point of mainland Spain... is priceless.
Besides getting scratched by the famous common gorse bushes (ulex europeaus), your legs will end up tired, very tired. After finishing the different stages and taking a well-deserved shower, we made good use of the OXD arnica and harpagophytum replenishing gel, and it really is amazing. The sensation invades and relaxes your legs, so much so that you start to forget about the superhuman effort, only remembering the sparkle on your face, the breathtaking scenery and how good the tuna pasty you shared at the second stop of the day was.
In any case, tired legs or not, although it is not the most westerly point of mainland Spain, the moment you see the Finisterre lighthouse (that is awe-inspiring thanks to its beauty and the fact that you have achieved the difficult goal of walking the entire Camiño dos Faros), all the pain, blisters and scratches will be quickly forgotten!
So now you know, if you want a different kind of holiday, urban yet surrounded by nature, quiet yet active, you can't miss this route. If you're also lucky enough to walk the route with amazing fellow hikers with whom you can enjoy all the little things that it offers along the way, then the Camiño dos Faros is for you.